Variability of heating demand throughout a year.

Friends, as I drift off to sleep at night, I often reflect on the subtle wonder of heat pumps, and last night I imagined this article in my head. However writing the article has proved more difficult than I had envisaged in my sleepy reverie.

There are lots of technical details, so in case you need to leave early, the question I wanted to answer was this:

  • How many days a year does a heat pump (or indeed any other kind of heater) need to work at full power to keep a dwelling warm? And what fraction of the time does it need work at, say, half-power?

The answer for the region around Heathrow Airport is shown in the graph below.

Click on image for a larger version. Based on 3 years of daily data, the graph shows the typical number of days per year that the given fraction of full heating power is required. Full power is the power required to keep the dwelling at 20 °C on the coldest day in the last three years. Adding up the individual data points, one can see, for example, that for typically 69 days per year, the required heating power is between 40% and 60% of the maximum. Heating power between 80% and 100% is only required on 12 days per year.

This graph is useful because it allows one to estimate the costs of running a gas boiler or a heat pump throughout the whole year. And it also one to assess how a battery can be used with a heat pump to reduce running costs during the winter.

So let’s see how to calculate the graph above.

1. To begin

The first step is to estimate how the heating demand varies through the year. To do this I downloaded daily heating degree-day (HDD) data from degree days.net for my neighbourhood airport, Heathrow, for the last 3 years. I used the 16.5 °C HDD data because this corresponds roughly with the heating demand for a dwelling kept at 20 °C.

Click on image for a larger version. 3 years of daily heating demand data based on the meteorological station at Heathrow Airport UK, just 10 km from my home. You can see the two cold spells we had last winter (22/23) in December and January.

I then divided each data point by the maximum heating demand – which was 18.8 °C. I then expressed the heating demand as a fraction of this maximum.

Click on image for a larger version. 3 years of daily heating demand data based on the meteorological station at Heathrow Airport UK, just 10 km from my home. Data are expressed as a fraction of the maximum heating demand which occurred in January 2023.

In this graph the data are just the same as in the first graph, but the vertical axis is now labelled by the fraction of maximum heating demand. Looking at this graph we can see that there are:

  • Lots days in which heating demand was less than 10% of maximum,
  • Just a few days in which heating demand was greater than 90% of maximum
  • Lots of days where heating was in the range between 10% and 90% of maximum.

This graph applies to any kind of heater, gas boiler or heat pump – it’s just describing the variation in heating demand through the year that must be met in order to keep a dwelling at the same temperature.

2. Let’s make a histogram

Fascinating as the above graph is, it does not tell us what we want to know! We want to be able to estimate the fraction of the time that the heat pump operates in the range between (say) 10% and 20%, or in the range between (say) 50% and 75%. To work this out we need to re-structure the data. Here are some graphs of the re-structured data with the heating power divided into twenty 5% bands: 0-5%, 5.1% to 10%, …..95.1% to 100%.

Click on image for a larger version. Histogram of 3 years of daily heating demand data based on the meteorological station at Heathrow Airport. See text for explanation.

Each point on the graph shows the percentage of the heat demand in each band. So for example the above graph tells us that:

  • 22.4% of the time the heating demand is less than  5% of full power.

Or considering several bands together,

  • The heating required is between 40% and 60% of full power for 5.1% + 5.9% + 4.2% + 3.8% = 19.0% percent of the year
  • The heating required is above 80% of full power for 0.9% + 0.9% + 1.0% + 0.5% = 3.3% percent of the year.

We can also usefully re-draw the graph expressing the frequency of each level of heat demand as a likely number of days per year on which that heating demand will be required.

Click on image for a larger version. The graph shows the typical number of days per year that the given fraction of full heating power is required. Adding up the individual data points, one can see, for example, that for typically 69 days per year, the required heating power is between 40% and 60% of the maximum. Heating power between 80% and 100% is only required on 12 days per year.

Grouping the data into 20% bands we see that there are around 160 days – generally known as “summer” – with very low heating demand. There are a further (roughly) 160 days with medium heating demand (between 20% and 60%) and finally (roughly) 45 days with high heating demand (between 60% and 100%).

3. Let’s think about a dwelling with a particular heating demand

I find the above analysis fascinating, but it becomes even more interesting if one considers a specific dwelling with (say) 5 kW of maximum heating demand. We can now re-draw the above graph in a number of ways.

Click on image for a larger version. For a dwelling with a maximum heating demand of 5 kW, the graph shows the typical number of days per year that a particular average heating power per day was required to keep the dwelling at 20 °C. For example, for typically 69 days per year, the required heating power is between 2 kW and 3 kW.

The graph above now has the heat pump power in kilowatts (of heat) showing that – for example – the average daily heating power is between 3 and 4 kilowatts (of heat) for typically 36 days per year.

If a heater delivers on average 3 kW of heating power for a day it will deliver 3 kW × 24 hours = 72 kWh/day of heat energy into the dwelling. So we can replot the graph again but this time labelling the horizontal axis with the heat energy delivered per day (kWh/day).

Click on image for a larger version. For a dwelling near Heathrow with a maximum heating demand of 5 kW, the graph shows the typical number of days per year that a particular number of kWh of heating required to keep the dwelling at 20 °C. For example, for typically 12 days per year, the required heating energy exceeded 96 kWh/day.

And now we can begin to see something useful. The graph tells us that – on average – for 23.8 days a year, the dwelling requires ~48 kWh/day of heating. So if we multiply 23.8  days × 48 kWh/day we get 1,142 kWh. So we can now work how much heat is delivered in each operating band. Remember that although there are not many days in the high-power band, lots of heat is delivered on each of those cold days. And likewise, although there are lots of low-power days, not much heat is delivered on those days.

Click on image for a larger version. For a dwelling near Heathrow with a maximum heating demand of 5 kW, the graph shows the typical amount of heat (kWh) delivered at each power level. For example, Of the 13,900 kWh required for the whole year, 1,300 kWh were delivered at between 80% and 100% power, and 4,300 kWh were delivered at between 40% and 60% power.

This graph yields lots of information:

  • Adding up all the data we see that throughout the year the heat delivered amounts to 13,900 kWh.
  • If this had been delivered by a 90% efficient gas boiler then the boiler would have consumed 15,400 kWh of gas per year. And the Rule of Thumb would have suggested that “right size” of heat pump would be 5.3 kW – quite close to the actual ‘perfect’ heat pump size.
  • We see that the coldest 12 days of the year require 1,300 kWh of heating – around 9% of the annual heat load – and that the bulk of the heating (10,700 kW or 77%) is delivered on milder days when the average heating power is between 1 kW and 4 kW.

4. Cost

The discussions so-far has just centred on the heat delivered to the dwelling. Nothing so far has been about costs, or the specific advantages of using a heat pump. The above discussion could apply to electrical heaters or a gas boiler. The graph below shows the distribution of costs across the different power levels expressed as cost per day, assuming heating at 8p/kWh. As I write this typical gas tariff.

Click on image for a larger version. For a dwelling near Heathrow with a maximum heating demand of 5 kW, the graph shows the typical distribution of cost per day (£) if each unit of heating delivered costs £0.08 £/kWh. For example, 9% of the annual bill would be incurred on the coldest days, each day costing more than £8/day.

The wonder of heat pumps is that they can deliver more than one unit of heat energy for each unit of electrical energy consumed. The ratio of the two is called the Coefficient of Performance or COP, and it changes with the operating parameters of the heat pump. In particular, at lower external temperatures when the heat pump is working hardest, the COP is lowest. The graph below shows a guess for how the COP of a heat pump might change with heating demand – a proxy for outside temperature.

Click on image for a larger version. The graph below shows a guess for how the COP of a heat pump might change with heating demand – a proxy for outside temperature. At 100% heating demand the outside temperature was around – 2 °C.

Assuming this variation we can now work out how much electrical power – which we need to pay for – was required by the heat pump to deliver the necessary thermal power.

Click on image for a larger version. For a dwelling near Heathrow with a maximum heating demand of 5 kW, the graph shows the typical amount of heat (kWh) delivered at each power level, and the amount of electricity (kWh) required to deliver that heat. For example, on the coldest days when the heat pump was operating above 80% capacity, 1,300 kWh of heat were delivered using only 484 kWh of electricity.

This analysis tells us that over the entire year 3,800 kWh of electricity would be required to pump the 13,900 kWh of heat – a seasonally-averaged COP of 3.6.

  • If one paid 28 p/kWh for electricity this would cost £1,064 to deliver the heat.
  • If one paid 32 p/kWh for electricity this would cost £1,216 to deliver the heat.
  • If we were to use gas a 90% efficient gas boiler to deliver the same 13,900 kWh of heat at 7p/kWh this would cost £1,081.

To the accuracy of this calculation, the costs of using gas at £0.07/kWh or a heat pump at £0.28p/kWh are similar. Of course the carbon costs are dramatically different. Using a gas boiler would emit 3,500 kg of CO2 compared with emissions of only 874 kg when using a heat pump: a 75% reduction.

5. Making the heat pump option cheaper

Friends. we now reach the point where I explain why I have taken you on this long journey. I didn’t want to emphasise it at the start of the article because it seemed so complicated – but if you have made it this far, I think will now get the point!

Wouldn’t it be great if the heat pump could not only supply low carbon electricity, but could also do it at significantly lower cost – significant enough to justify the capital expenditure of a heat pump?

To achieve lower cost, one needs to spend even more money and use a heat pump with a battery to allow off-peak electricity purchases: But what size battery should one buy? And how much will it save? Now we are getting to the serious questions!

So first we need to re-jig the graphs above to show how electricity use is distributed across the different amounts of heat delivered per day.

Click on image for a larger version. For a dwelling near Heathrow with a maximum heating demand of 5 kW, the graph shows the typical number of days in which a particular amount of electricity (kWh) is  to deliver heating to maintain 20 °C.

So now I will consider my current tariff with Octopus: they keep changing its name so I won’t confuse you, but it means I can buy electricity at 7.5 p/kWh for 6 hours at night: the rest of the time electricity costs 32p/kWh. I use this to run the house and charge up the 13.5 kWh Powerwall battery.  The battery then has to run the house for 18 hours until the next cheap period. If the capacity is not enough then I have to buy some full price electricity!

Considering only space heating – not hot water or other appliances – and assuming 100% battery efficiency, we see that for the days where the heating demand in that 18 hours amounts to less than 13.5 kWh, we could run the house entirely on cheap electricity. So when daily demand is less than 18 kWh of electricity, the heating demand could be met entirely with cheap-rate electricity.

If we had more batteries, then we could store more cheap electricity. The graph below shows an estimate for the impact that different sizes of batteries would have on the annual heating bill.

Click on image for a larger version. For a dwelling near Heathrow with a maximum heating demand of 5 kW, the graph shows the typical annual cost (excluding standing charges) of using a heat pump  to deliver heating to maintain 20 °C.

Please note: this calculation covers just the cost of the consumed units of electricity: it ignores many relevant factors such as:

  • Standing charges.
  • The use of electricity to do other essential activities.
  • Inefficiencies charging and discharging the battery.
  • The capital costs of the heat pump and the battery.
  • Other more complex tariff structures.
  • Use of the batteries to export electricity.
  • Any use of solar panels.

Reflections

Friends, I conceived of this article in a reverie, and I am having difficulty finishing it – it’s like a dream from which I cannot wake up! But here’s the bottom line:

  • Using a battery with a heat pump, but without Solar PV is an unusual combination. However I thought I would investigate to see if it might possibly be a useful combination.
  • Using a heat pump with a battery can reduce annual running costs – but even for a modest 5 kW of peak heat loss (i.e. 72 kWh of heat/day), one needs a large battery – around 10 kWh to make a significant dent in the annual bill.

If you have read this far, I would just like to personally say “Thank you, and Congratulations” – and I hope you don’t feel short-changed at the conclusion.

 

27 Responses to “Variability of heating demand throughout a year.”

  1. Gary Says:

    Thanks for taking the time to write up your thoughts. We are believers but clearly the bulk of consumers will get lost in the tradeoffs/variables etc. We hope to take the leap in 2024.

    • protonsforbreakfast Says:

      Gary, Good Evening.

      Good luck with 2024 install: if you think I might help in any way, do feel free to ask.

      M

  2. peterstevenson4237 Says:

    This was a most interesting piece of work on heat pumps.
    I fear, however, thar the average householder or even a heat pump salesman will be put off by the complexity of the necessary calculations.
    Could I suggest that what is required now is a formula into which an interested party can input, size of house, battery size, prices of gas and electricity, etc., to arrive at a return on capital invested.
    Further, if the Government understood the implications, they might see the merit of subsidies to achieve a major change over from gas boilers to heat pumps.
    May I suggest another question that you might think about.
    As electricity is only required for lighting, TV, computers, etc., might it not be better to supply houses and offices with their required heat via hot water from a district heating scheme?

    • protonsforbreakfast Says:

      Peter,

      Good Evening. And thank you for your excellent suggestions.

      1. Yes, I think the variation of heating demand through the year could be easily parameterised: just a simple formula could be used. I will think about this some more.

      2. District heating using central heat pumps and heat storage is a great way to heat homes. And for new homes, where infrastructure is being installed as a dwelling is being built, it makes excellent sense. And probably retrofitting within a block of flats also makes sense. But it only makes sense if almost everyone uses it. We have such problems in teh UK that I although I would love to be wrong, I can only imagine individual household based solutions.

      Best wishes: M

  3. Karl Says:

    Thanks for this. You seemingly write articles just as I happen to be going through a similar thought process myself.

    I’ve just got my PV+Battery installed and am weighing up the Pros/Cons of getting a Heat Pump – in fact, I have Urban Plumber coming round in January to perform a heat-loss survey.

    Without going into the same detail you just have, I am leaning towards the same conclusion. Even with the £7.5k government grant for heat pumps, the need for an additional (13.5 kWh battery in my case) results in a fairly modest annual saving. And because of the nature of things (i.e. there’s less solar PV generation when you need to heat your home the most) you have to rely on cheap electricity to heat your home. To make things worse, there’s no saying how long Octopus will continue to provide such tariffs. Eventually, as more and more people get batteries to charge overnight, it might even be that the overnight rate becomes the more expensive (I’m a cynic, at heart ;-)).

    • angiesgrandad Says:

      Well that’s a cheery thought! But I suspect you could well be right as the supply and demand dynamic for energy starts to move more and more in favour of electricity. Till then I shall keep my Christmas tree lights burning! May I add Seasons Greeting to Michael with thanks for all his helpful breakfast protons this year.

      • protonsforbreakfast Says:

        … and Season’s Greetings to you too, Chas. The shortest day is nearly here and then it won’t be long until the first flowers of spring…

        M

  4. Judith Says:

    Thank you Michael for such a robust analysis. In my own analysis I have concluded that twice the house thermal load at design temperature (-2C for us) is about the right battery size to dent the electrcity bill enough to make sense. If your SCOP is higher than your 3.6 then a smaller battery would suffice. Even with a lower SCOP then it makes financial sense, (just) and clearly it makes great sense for carbon reduction!

    • protonsforbreakfast Says:

      Judith, Good Morning.

      I am glad you found the article helpful. And good luck with developments in teh coming year – exciting times: M

  5. ianringrose Says:

    I been thinking about this.

    An A2A system while keeping existing gas boiler lets gas be used on days the battery can’t cover. (Likewise hybred A2W but harder to install). A wood burning stove would tend to be used in the coldest evenings.

    Existing or very cheap 2nd hand storage heaters could be used as we can predict very well when the next day is going to be cold. So use battery+A2A to add quick responce “fine tuning” and much lower heating costs mid season.

    A DIY battery using B grade cells is interesting as the reduced cycles from B grade is not an issue if the battery is not cycled most days. Likewise V2H mostly solve the issue as the car battery would only need to surport the home battery for a few weeks a year and a lower temperature when not at home is OK.

    The swings in grid demand would be “interesting” if everyone had heat pumps. (Gas copes as a lot of gas is stored in the gas main pipelines due to the large pressure reduction at gas meters.) As very cold days cluster, a heat storage system needs to store many days heat to smooth out demand.

    Did the COP take into account the higher flow temperature on very cold days or just the lower outside air temperature?

    • protonsforbreakfast Says:

      Ian, Good Morning

      Your comment summarises the multiple options available to people – Air to Air, Air to Water, storage heaters and batteries of all kinds, and hybrid combinations of these with the older technologies – and with newer technologies such a Vehicle to home charging.

      This year 2023 it looks like cumulative generation by renewables will be greater than fossil fuel generation for the first time (link) (as I write on 21/12/2023, its 36.0% versus 34.8%). But amazing as this is, I am sure there will problems as the renewable fraction increases – and the last few percent will be very difficult to replace.

      Regarding COP, yes, the reduction of COP when it’s cold outside is due to both factors. But if you just plot a graph of COP versus temperature demand it comes out as a straight-ish line.

      I measured this in this article:

      Cold Weather Measurements of Heat Transfer Coefficient

      Best wishes

      Michael

  6. Kevin B Says:

    Fascinating article and discussion. I have not been able to make any calculation where a battery makes sense but perhaps I need to think about this some more? What I quite like is the idea of using my homes thermal capacity as an energy storage system. So I heat the home to higher temperature when the electricity is cheaper and then the heat pump doesn’t run during the more expensive times. I moved onto the octopus Cosy tariff that has two low cost periods last month and so far this seems to be working out ok. Using my home as a store costs nothing, it is efficient and doesn’t incur the environmental impact of making a battery.

    • protonsforbreakfast Says:

      Kevin, Good Morning,

      When one surveys the possible combination of changing electricity prices through the day coupled with the flexibility of batteries (which comes at a cost) it is very hard to work out “the best” thing to do. It always seems as though there might be a smarter option that one hasn’t considered.

      In future years I think battery prices will fall and the number of time-of-use tariffs will likely increase. I am sure that at some point something will make sense for you.

      Best wishes

      Michael

      • Kevin B Says:

        I totally agree with your expectation on lower battery prices. There is so much financial pressure driving innovation on battery technology. I read an interesting article the other day about using Aluminium and Sulphur and the expectation was to lower the cost to 10% of today’s costs. They are also relatively abundant so have a low environmental cost of extraction. This is the sort of change that will transform the economics of battery storage and electric vehicles. It still seems some 5 years out but I hope we are all in this for the long haul.

      • protonsforbreakfast Says:

        I agree. But it’s hard to spot which technologies will be eventual winners! All the best: M

  7. Sam P Says:

    Which prompts the question: how can you increase the thermal mass of your home? Or even, what is your home’s thermal mass now and how would increasing it affect the temperature inside?

    I remember watching a video of a couple living off-grid in Canada or the northern US who had sourced lots of large plastic water containers and filled their basement with them, all full of water and sealed up. They reckoned the thermal mass made a significant improvement to livability, but I don’t have the smarts to know if they were right and, if so, what kind of time period it would be effective over e.g. would the “thermal battery” have largely drained after a few hours, days, weeks or months? I’m sure there are dozens of variables to consider.

    I gather there are materials (PCMs) with far higher thermal mass than water but presumably also with higher costs and less environmentally friendly.

    • protonsforbreakfast Says:

      Sam P: Good Morning.

      The aim of increasing the increasing the “thermal mass” (aka heat capacity) of a home is to allow it ‘smooth out’ the response of the home to external changes in temperature. I’ll explain why below, but this is not always the best response to the problem.

      When one analyses the problem, the response time of the temperature of building depends on not dozens of things but in fact just two: the response time depends on the product the “thermal mass” of the building and the “thermal resistance” of link between the inside and the outside.

      The units of the time constant are seconds
      The units of the thermal mass are joules per degree Celsius
      The units of the thermal resistance are degrees Celsius per watt

      The maths formula that connects them is:

      time constant = [thermal resistance] x [thermal mass]

      All this is a pre-amble to saying that to increase the time constant of a building one can choose between (a) increasing the thermal mass of a building, or (b) increasing the thermal resistance between the inside and the outside.

      If one wanted to increase the time constant of a building by a factor 2, it turns out using insulation and blocking draughts it’s quite possible to double the time constant by a factor approaching 2.

      But increasing the thermal mass by a factor 2 generally involves increasing the actual mass by a factor by a factor 2! For the 300 tons or so of bricks in my house this involves adding perhaps more than 100 cubic metres of something! That’s a lot of volume to fit inside the so-called thermal envelope of a house – the place where I live.

      So it’s generally smarter to length the time constant by improving resistance.

      Regarding Phase Change Materials, these are substances which are used in two distinct domestic applications. When used to store hot water (link) a PCM storage device can store heat at better than twice the density of a domestic hot water cylinder. PCMs are also used in some panels which are designed to have encapsulated particles change phase (i.e. from solid to liquid) and absorb heat at a temperature of around 25 °C – the heat is then released as the panel cools below this temperature.

      Do drop me a line if you think I may have missed something.

      Best wishes

      Michael

      • Sam P Says:

        Thank you Michael. I hadn’t expected such an interesting and detailed reply.

        I wonder if there are, or will be, novel materials for new buildings which meet all the cost, engineering and safety requirements for internal walls and floors, but also have a significantly higher heat capacity for a given volume than brick and concrete.

        I would guess that it would make more sense to focus on the ground floor flooring, assuming there was an insulating layer beneath it, because a lot of actual mass can be put there and depending on the building design it can get a reasonable amount of direct heating from the sun.

        None of this speculation is going to help me with my solid-walled 1930s semi which is determined to bankrupt me either via heating bills or the cost of retrofit insulation though!

        Thanks again for an interesting post and reply.

      • protonsforbreakfast Says:

        Sam P,

        There could well be developments in materials, but nothing will approach the specific heat capacity of water – which is exceptionally large.

        But as you say, one can imagine arcane super-buildings but none of that seems relevant to the actual buildings we live in.

        Personally, my work on this 1927 Semi was achieved by pouring a big pile of money into it – my retirement ‘lump sum’.

        But if you think through the spectrum of possible responses from draught-proofing to glazing to insulation to solar PV to batteries and maybe a heat pump, I do hope you find something which helps.

        One of the best things you can do in this cold weather is to measure the amount of electricity and gas that you use in one day to keep your home at the temperature you like it. There’s information on the blog about how to process the data, but contact me if you need help.

        Cold Weather Measurements of Heat Transfer Coefficient

        All the best

        Michael

  8. alex Says:

    Feasibility of calculating/measuring thermal mass for residential buildings.

    I am particularly interested in identifying a solution that is both accurate and cost-effective.

    I have been researching various market options for measuring thermal mass and heat loss in residential buildings. However, the vast array of products and services can be overwhelming. I am seeking your expert guidance in selecting the most suitable solution for my needs.

    Could you please advise me on the most accurate and cost-effective methods for measuring thermal mass in residential buildings? I am open to considering both DIY and professional options.

    “How do heat demand
    and energy consumption change when households transition from gas boilers to heat pumps in the UK,” https://nicola.qeng-ho.org/housemodel/interactive.php

    • protonsforbreakfast Says:

      Alex, good evening,

      I’m afraid I don’t understand quite understand how your question relates to the article. Perhaps you could explain a bit more.

      M

  9. Dick Morris Says:

    I read today of these new designs of heat pumps which reputedly are able to produce much higher water temperatures. Thus replacing my gas fired boiler would be cheaper.. Additionally for those with small bore pipes to the radiators it solves a big problem. Is this perhaps going to enable many more people to replace their gas fired boilers like myself.?
    Also is the replacement of your existing heat pump something that you might consider.?

    See BBC web page := https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-67511954

    Thanks…… Happy New Year…..

    • protonsforbreakfast Says:

      Dick, Good Afternoon.

      These high temperature heat pumps have been around for a while. My own heat pump (Vaillant Arotherm Plus 5 kW) is just on its third winter. It can easily heat water to 70 °C when it needs to – which it does once a week to kill Legionella bacteria.

      I can understand that might seem re-assuring, but operating as a replacement for a gas boiler the coefficient of performance (aka COP or efficiency) is likely to be only around 2 i.e. each kWh of electrical energy produces ‘only’ 2 kWh of heat energy.

      As one lowers the flow temperature and extends the running time (not cycling on and off like a boiler) the efficiency goes up. As I write it is 12 °C outside and the house is at a comfortable 21 °C. The efficiency is 430% i.e. each kWh of electrical energy produces 4.3 kWh of heat energy. The water in the radiators is a tepid 30 °C.

      Even in less well-insulated homes, heat pumps will work fine.

      I wrote an explanation of why people sometimes have problems with improperly installed heat pumps here.

      Hydronics

      Meanwhile – keep warm!

      M

  10. Austin Says:

    Hi M – what a great read!
    I’m working on simulation rather than forecasting but on the same topic. This month I’ve been working on the cost effectiveness of battery storage when combined with a heat pump and a time-of-day tariff. Please do collaborate. Here’s my approach to the problem: https://lowcarbonheating.wordpress.com/2024/01/28/will-a-retrofit-heat-pump-perform-well-in-your-home-my-prediction-concept-is-finally-ready-to-blog-about/

    • protonsforbreakfast Says:

      Austin, Good Evening.

      That’s an interesting article that you have linked to, but I disagree with quite a lot of what you assert. I can’t go through everything but for example:

      You need a fairly-well insulated property. There is no absolute here.
      Underfloor heating is recommended because it works most efficiently at the lower floor heating temperatures and reduces running costs.
      Established theory says we need higher temperatures for domestic hot water, hence we need the newer breed of high temperature air-to-water heat pumps to provide this.

      If look at the open source Heat Pump Monitor site you’ll see plenty of Ecodans and similar doing very well.

      I’m not quite sure what you device is doing – I can’t understand how it captures heat output without using a heat meter. Is it just reading gas consumption and guessing 85% efficiency or so?

      I have written quite a bit about this in recent years and you may find something helpful – your probably way more technically competent than I am and so may see a way to proceed that I didn’t.

      Anyway:

      1. Here is my ‘Rule of thumb‘ for heat pump sizing

      2. Here is an article on the 5 things that go wrong with heat pump installations

      Maybe – if I knew what your device did it might help overcome some of those sizing problems. However, I don’t think it can help with diagnosing problems with the secondary pipework being too small.

      You may also find this rather older contribution relevant – it’s an attempt to simulate heating, solar PV and battery use in 30 minutes segments through the year and estimating costs according to different tariffs. It’s still imperfect – it doesn’t have a realistic daily load – but I may get around to working on that one of these days.

      Anyway, good luck with device – I would be interested to understand its operating principle. I could see that it might well help build confidence with potential clients.

      Best wishes

      Michael

      • Austin Says:

        Thanks Michael.
        I also made a mammoth spreadsheet in about 2022 to achieve the same! I think you’ve identified an important gap in the market to provide advice and sizing on combinations of renewables. I will take a good look at your one later.
        I am rebuilding another version right now to merge all my real world measures with it. I’m holding fire on the PV data so that I have a job for March
        About the boiler monitor: it’s complex but not rocket science so I’ll document the way it works later. Effectively I’ll need to explain every step in programs. It is just a heat meter with the ease of just being clipped onto pipes. It is better than 97% accurate at knowing when the boiler is firing and it’ll do this every n seconds. I started with n=20 but found n=30 to be fine so long as I sync it with my controller. That another story. Anyway it uses the return temperature and firing rate (modulation) to calculate overall efficiency from gas consumed and converts that into heat supplied to system. Detectors on CH and HW feeds enable apportioning of heat supplied to one or both destinations. The power of the boiler burner was fixed in my house and this is possible on many boilers. If not, its possible to calibrate the output of the boiler by using the flow and return differences and doing yet more complex maths in reverse to work out modulation percentage. Provided pump mode isn’t changed then the initial calibration should hold true. Client measures of gas from smart metering etc can provide a final calibration, assuming gas hobs aren’t being used. I have found my estimates to be very, very accurate indeed, like 99%, without the gas meter data.
        More importantly, I know what flow temperature is necessary to provide the right amount of heat into the existing system of pipes and radiators, if it was replaced with a heat pump.
        I agree it cannot check the pipework for its ability to operate at lower temperatures than is currently being output.
        I didn’t quite see your point about Ecodans doing well. I’m sure they are; it’s my reference model for all my analysis so I’d worry if they weren’t. I included the Ecodan in my bracket of ‘newer breed of heat pump’, so I’ll try to avoid vague statements like that in future blogs. Apols my first ever blog!

      • protonsforbreakfast Says:

        Austin, Good Morning, Two Points

        Point 1
        A heat meter conventionally measures flow (litres/sec) and a temperature difference between flow and return.

        Your ‘heat meter’ seems estimate the heating rate as follows
        (a) From return temperature, estimate condensing fraction and boiler efficiency.
        (b) From gas consumption and boiler efficiency estimate the heat produced – and ultimately the thermal power.

        Have I understood that correctly? Anyway, I subscribed to you blog so hopefully there’ll more news in the future!

        Point 2
        You mentioned that

        “… it cannot check the pipework for its ability to operate at lower temperatures than is currently being output.”

        It’s not the temperature of the flow that determines the pipework size requirement. The temperature of teh flow determines the size of radiators required for a given heat output.

        It’s the *temperature difference* between flow and return (typically 5 °C for heat pumps and 10+ °C for boilers) that requires a much larger flow rate through the pipework.

        Point 3
        I think of Ecodans as old technology: they still use a working fluid with a high GWP and they cannot heat water to 70 °C without an auxiliary heater. Working fluids of propane for CO2 seem to be the way of the future.

        Best wishes

        Michael

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